Food is something that is always on my mind. I eat a lot back home in the U.S., and that really hasn’t changed since coming to Ghana. I start my day off with a breakfast fit for champion athletes, or at least mega-men looking to beef up. It usually consists of a heavy porridge made from maize or millet (to which I add two or three heaping spoonfuls of sugar and full-cream evaporated milk), either scrambled or hard-boiled eggs, sausage, and toast. Lately, I have been adding one or two small mangoes to this, as it is just now becoming their season. This meal is not particularly Ghanaian–indeed, I typically have these items back in the states, save maybe the porridge–and my host family doesn’t usually even eat until lunchtime. Still, I have a massive breakfast every single day thanks to my gracious host mother.
Riding in a tro-tro provides a great opportunity to buy snacks and junk-food and generally increase my caloric intake. As I ride to work, the abundance of plantain chip, yoghurt, Fanmilk, and doughnut sellers astonishes me. I try not to partake of these foods too much because I am honestly not that hungry between my very large meals and also because I can’t imagine they are very good for me. However, I sometimes allow myself a FanIce,FanYogo, or the occasional “Bofrut,” which is a delicious fried doughnut served with peanuts. Buying on-the-go from street sellers is a really fun and convenient experience that I will surely miss when I return home to my realm of static shopping.
For lunch, I usually have something small, either fried yam with chili pepper sauce or grilled plantain with peanuts. My most significant meal of the day undoubtedly occurs at dinner, which I often help to prepare with my host brother or other family members. I am now a veritable expert at frying plantain:

And I have started to help out with more complicated dishes like this stew, which is one of my absolute favorite foods here:

Some of the foods that are “most Ghanaian” are fufu, banku, and kenkey, although there are many, many other traditional dishes. However, these are all somewhat similar, and I will provide a quick guide on how to eat banku. Banku is made from corn flour and some kasava flour and is constantly stirred while cooked on a high heat. Banku looks very similar to kenkey and fufu, and it is eaten in the same manner. Thus, if you can eat banku, you can eat them all.
Step 1: Look at your meal. That’s the banku on the right and the okro stew on the left.
Step 2: Take a piece of the banku and form a small cup shape. Make sure to use the right hand.
Step 3: Dip the banku into the stew, scoopingup as little or as much as would like.
Step 4: Enjoy! It is helpful (and customary) to swallow banku, fufu, and kenkey without chewing.
So there you have it: a sampling of the foods I commonly eat and enjoy, as well as a basic guide in “how to eat like a Ghanaian.” I can’t really say that I eat like a Ghanaian, though; I am much less efficient and expedient. Despite this, I am trying my best. I have to go now–I think I’m a little late for dinner.






Hey Cole; this is terrific to read. Do you know a writer by the name of Peter Hessler? He is a princeton grad and writes for the New Yorker. You might check him out some time for inspiration as he is considered one of the “greats” when it comes to writing of the type you are doing…
things are good here, travelling alot to China, Phillipines, Malaysia lately for work. Pain in the ass, but enjoyable as well. Maybe we share a love of travel?
cheers,
uncle Nate
Cole, I cannot fathom how you (and Jessica and the others) manage to eat the banku, fufu and kenkey without chewing it. I can only imagine wanting to taste the flavors together in my mouth. So my kudos to you on that skill — and the many others you are honing there. May your next few months be as interesting and valuable as the first few. Peace, Cami Haley